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| Princess Parrot Polytelis alexandrae. Museum of Central Australia specimen, prepared and mounted by Ian Archibald. |
"I feel assured that the discovery of an additional species of the lovely genus Polytelis will be hailed with pleasure by ornithologists...".
So wrote John Gould in his Handbook to the Birds of Australia in 1863, of the first Princess Parrot collected for description by Frederick Waterhouse during John McDouall Stuart's first expedition to Central Australia. Frankly, it's all downhill from there as he descends into the awful toadying language that was fairly typical of the time, at one point opining hopefully that the eponymous Alexandra might one day become, "Queen of these realms and dependencies, of which Australia is by no means the most inconspicuous." Really!? So Australia is definitely not the most inconspicuous? But please sir, surely you gush!
Enough though - it was a different time and Gould was probably just smoothing his career path and looking to secure future funding. The specimen in question was collected from a place named Howell's Ponds which is unknown to me. Some more recent specimens, however, have turned up at a place called Newhaven. Newhaven I know quite well.
When the word came through from AWC's managers at the reserve that Princess Parrots had been seen every day for four days running, it was a foregone conclusion that I would move hell and earth to head out for a look. Finding a travelling companion was less straightforward though. Fortunately, a meeting of the Alice Springs Field Naturalists Club on Wednesday gave me the opportunity to canvas for potential takers. The single spare seat in my car was soon snapped up by a distinguished looking gent who introduced himself as Ian. A more interesting travelling companion would be difficult to find.
Ian Archibald has recently completed a lengthy career with the Northern Territory Museum as a technician working at both the museum in Darwin and Alice Springs. Among many other achievements in his long career, Ian skinned, stuffed, and mounted the famous Sweetheart - the 17ft Saltwater Crocodile that famously tormented fishermen in the Finniss River around Sweet's Lookout before his accidental demise during a relocation attempt. Ian has also been a steady hand at the nationally significant Alcoota fossil dig since its inception and has mounted a number of the skeletons from that site for the NT Museum. In short, he has prepared creatures of all shapes and sizes from tiny Marsupial Moles to Blue Whales and everything in between and has a mastery of understatement that is typical of well-travelled folks who've spent a good deal of their career in the field. He remarked of the Blue Whale experience after the discovery of a beached and decomposing specimen on a remote Top End beach, "walking around knee deep in rotting whale guts for days on end... it's not much fun, especially in tropical heat." I'll take his word for it.
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| Just a small corner of "Ian's Room" at the Museum of Central Australia. All manner of skeletons, exquisitely assembled and posed - pelicans, mala, bats, mulga snakes - Ian did the lot. |
So there was little doubt that I had an interesting travelling companion to pass the journey. Princess Parrot would prove to be one of the very few animals that swims, flies, or farts, that Ian had yet to see in the wild. He had prepared a few for museum displays though, which makes him something of an expert on their plumage and morphology. So the drive out, when we weren't stopping for snakes, lizards, and roadside birding, was taken up with discussion of spatules and tail lengths.
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| Keep an eye out for the sign. If you miss this turn it's a long way to Hall's Creek. |
The drive out to Newhaven is a very manageable 750km round trip from Alice Springs. The first stretch along the Tanami Road is bitumen all the way out to Tilmouth Well. There's a bit of rough unsealed road past Tilmouth Well Roadhouse until the Newhaven turn-off about 25kms further down the track. After the turn off, the road to Newhaven is a single lane of sandy road, mostly as straight as a die, for the 135kms to the reserve homestead. The road is quite good as it doesn't get too much traffic, but you will still need a four wheel drive due to a few deep sandy sections and some heavy corrugations inside the reserve itself. [All other outback driving precautions should be assumed. Carry a first aid kit and lots of extra food and water. Duplex capable UHF radio equipment as a minimum and satellite telephones and an EPIRB if available. Leave detailed travel plans and itineraries with a reliable friend]. Otherwise it is an overwhelmingly pleasant drive - on our way we encountered a group of Australian Bustards on the track who slowly rose on heavy wings and followed us for a while. In just about every account in print of these birds the adjective "stately" always seems to be used, and I see no reason to depart from this convention.
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| Thorny Devil Moloch horridus. It doesn't matter how many you've seen - they're always worth stopping for. |
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| "Welcome to Newhaven Sanctuary!" |
With the promise of such an enigmatic species as Princess Parrot looming large in our thoughts, we still found time to notice a swag of other species on our travels to and around the reserve. Crimson Chats, Black-breasted Buzzards, White-fronted Honeyeaters, and big flocks of Budgerigars announced and welcomed our arrival. Managers Jo and Danae were already scheduled to leave on holidays when the Princess Parrots were discovered on the property. They have had to tear themselves away after just a few days with the birds, leaving the reserve and all visitors - not to mention the parrots themselves - in the friendly and capable hands of Peter and Toni. This experienced team have recently acquitted a stint as wardens of the Broome Bird Observatory and are well-travelled Australian birders who are still pinching themselves after the stroke of luck that has landed them in the middle of this rare event. More generous, knowledgeable and accommodating hosts would be very difficult to find. (If you're extra nice, you might get one of Toni's peanut bikkies - they're worth the trip all by themselves).
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| Ringed Brown Snake Pseudonaja modesta. The prettiest of the genus. |
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| Check the interesting sightings board when you register - just what you want to see! 43 Princess Parrots. |
Peter and Toni will be escorting all visitors to the site where the Princess Parrots have been, so far, as regular as clockwork. AWC management are asking that visitors don't reveal the exact location of the birds within the reserve which is entirely reasonable under the circumstances. Peter and Toni will probably just run one trip each day at either sunrise or in the afternoon depending on demand. They are utterly familiar with the birds' movements up to this point and they are learning more with each passing day.
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| It could be sunrise at any patch of scrub across the vast Australian deserts - but this little patch is special, at least for now. |
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| Bloodwood Corymbia opaca, at sunrise. This tree has 3 Princess Parrots in it, so well concealed that I walked straight past them. |
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| Shots from the afternoon session show the birds dozing in close branches or dense foliage, mostly in Bloodwoods, although a few were also observed in Desert Oaks Allocasuarina decaisneana. |
In the Bloodwoods the birds have an uncanny ability to disappear among the foliage. The green shoulder patches are a perfect simulacrum of the leaf and the other colours, which seem so garish, are in fact very effective at disappearing the bird into the bark. Many of the birds exhibited the often mentioned habit of perching along the branch rather than across it as might be expected of most parrots.
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| The "Lolly-Box" at the Museum of Central Australia - stunning Centralians all. |
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| Mounted specimen of an adult male bird clearly showing the projection of P8. |
When you get to Newhaven, you will be welcomed by a great team of people, a wealth of natural beauties, and with luck a rowdy bunch of the most charismatic parrots it is possible to find. Check the AWC website http://www.australianwildlife.org/AWC-Sanctuaries/Newhaven-Sanctuary.aspx for all the details pertaining to your visit and please be sure to book ahead so that the managers and volunteers can cater for everyone. A small amount of firewood is provided in the campground. The camping fee is $10 per night and there is a $50 fee per vehicle to cover the time and expenses of volunteers to lead groups out to the Princess Parrot site - this is a bargain price for such an experience so please do the right thing and cough up (I happen to know that Peter and Toni both enjoy an ice cream at the end of the day and supplies are running thin so if you have room in your car fridge for treats, I'm sure they will be most welcome.)
So there it is; so much more than just another tick, the Princess Parrot is a piece of Australian desert folklore that calls to us all. Far from just hardcore birders, on our trip we had a couple of teachers and a nurse from nearby Nyirripi who drove over to see what the fuss was all about. It isn't often that you would think of people turning up to a Princess Parrot twitch without even a single set of binoculars in the car between them - it's that sort of event.
The desert has opened up its treasure chest to share one of its rarest jewels. How long they stay is anybody's guess, but one thing is for certain - you will not be disappointed by the journey.
For anybody planning to head out, feel free to get in touch for help or advice on any other central Australian birding plans - birdscentral@gmail.com
Thanks to Jo and Danae for having Ian and myself out at such short notice and to Peter and Toni for their kindness and generosity with their time and insights. Lastly, thanks to Ian Archibald for balancing out my perennially lop-sided ute and sharing his wealth of knowledge and experiences with me over two of the greatest days of desert birding I can remember.

































